Sunday, May 13, 2012

This was my first trip back to Cilaos since I went there to climb the Piton des Neiges in November 2007 (see here).


Cilaos is one of Réunion Island's three cirques, or volcanic calderas. The other two are Salazie and Mafate. While Cilaos is accessible by road, the road in question is quite hair-raising with about several hundred bends (most of them hairpin), narrow passages and precipitous drops. The name 'Cilaos' is said to come from the old Malagasy word 'Tsilaosa' which means "the place one never leaves".

Palmiste Rouge is a large village on the way to Cilaos, with just under 1000 inhabitants

As we were staying in Ilet à Cordes we stopped off first in Cilaos, the  cirque's eponymous main town.


on the main street of Cilaos

I found things had not changed much since my last visit!

in Cilaos

The town is at an altitude of about 1200m and has just over 6000 inhabitants, making it the most populated of the three cirques.

sculpture on a roundabout

Cilaos is well-known for its thermal water, lentils, wine and embroidery.

Cilaos church

billboard for Bourbon ('dodo') beer

The village of Ilet à Cordes is a 11km drive further on from the town of Cilaos and is in the north-west part of the cirque. 

view of Cilaos from the Cilaos <> Ilet à Cordes road

Ilet à Cordes from the Cilaos <> Ilet à Cordes road

looking south to the coast

central plateau of Cilaos (seen from Cilaos <> Ilet à Cordes road)


close-up of Cilaos church from road


field - what an angle!


It's located on a plateau and has about 430 inhabitants and 140 houses. Like most of the cirque, agriculture is important and lentils are grown.

field, Ilet à Cordes


Gite Grondin

There are a number of gîtes, and we were staying in one called Gîte Grondin, also known as Gîte de l'Ilet.

sign outside Gîte Grondin

annexe of the gîte

The village takes its name from the cordes (ropes) that escaped slaves used to access the plateau in the 18th century and thus avoid detection by slave hunters.

the gîte is opposite one of the few shops in the village

From the village it's possible to see La Fenêtre des Makes, which is a viewpoint over Cilaos located in the commune of St Louis.

La Fenêtre des Makes (1574m)

The cauldron-like nature of a cirque means you are mostly surrounded by high cliff walls.


cliff wall, Ilet à Cordes 

Cilaos from Ilet à Cordes

looking east from Ilet à Cordes

As the weather was good we could see the Trois Salazes quite easily. They are three pointed outcrops on the ridge that separates Cilaos from Mafate.

Trois Salazes


looking down from the plateau Ilet à Cordes stands on

After a hearty evening meal...

some of the punchs on offer before dinner

... our first night spent in the gîte and a hearty breakfast... 

choice of jam at breakfast

...we set out back to Cilaos town the next day, where we left our cars near the small hospital, and went on a walk called the Bras de Benjoin, which took us to a picnic area near another village in the cirque, Bras Sec.

"It is strongly recommended the footpath be avoided in wet weather"

Despite the warning sign and the fact the walk can be quite steep, it's also fairly short - it only took us only 40 minutes to do in either direction. There's a small river (the Bras de Benjoin) to ford half-way.

river crossing point

The picnic area is known as Vieux puits Maillot ("Maillot's old well"). No well was in sight, but all the usual picnic area amenities were.

picnic area

picnic area


The next day it was already time for us to leave,  but on our way back to Cilaos we stopped at Ravine Fleur Jaunes which is a popular spot for rock-climbing and canyoning. As luck would have it we were able to see some canyoning underway.





I'll be back at Cilaos at the end of the month for some serious hiking!



Useful/interesting links:

Bras de Benjoin walk description (in French, on commune of Cilaos website)
Bras de Benjoin walk description (in French, mi aime a ou.com website)
Bras de Benjoin walk description (in French, on clicanoo.re)
Highlining between the Trois Salazes
Michelin guide article about the wine of Cilaos.
Cilaos on Reunionisland.net
Cilaos on Trip Advisor

Monday, May 7, 2012

Tip of the month - if you're an expat and you blog, or you're just a reader of expat blogs, you've probably come across Expat blog before. A web portal launched in 2005 by and for expatriates, its ambition is to help people living or willing to live abroad, wherever they are from or would like to go.


There are others in the field, but Expat blog is one of the most active online expat communities, with 420 000 members from 206 countries and 400 big cities. It has various tools to help expats and potential expats: discussion forums, an expat blogs directory, guides, photo albums, a business directory and classifieds.

Why am I telling you all this? Well to meet the demands of expatriates and soon-to-be expatriates in Reunion Island, Expat blog has launched two new dedicated spaces: a jobs section and a housing section. As the name says they are aimed at helping people in their search for work and/or accommodation, which as we all know are two essential steps when expatriating.


Jobs section - the idea is to get access to job opportunities in Reunion Island, wherever you are. You can access job offers, per job category and job contract. You can also create your CV and contact potential employers.

Housing - The Reunion Housing section enables you to look for or to offer accommodation: rental, sale, flat share…it’s up to you! You can also see pictures of the accommodation and get in touch with the person via Expat blog.



P.S. If you'd like to know more about Julien, the founder of Expat Blog, here's an interview with him at international man.com.


Wednesday, May 2, 2012


Last week I was invited by the Endless Possibilities Talks (EPT) team (Al Navas, Gerda Prato-Espejo and Esther Navarro-Hall) to talk about my personal journey, that is say the story of how I came to end up living and working as a translator on this small island in the Indian Ocean that is Reunion Island. We also talked about my 3 years spent living in South Korea, and some of my travels.

Esther, Gerda and Al reside in the US and all work as Spanish interpreters, mainly in the courts; Esther is also an Adjunct Professor at the Monterey Institute of International Studies and a trainer and consultant. At the beginning of this year they started a series of talks about the profession of Interpreting and Translating, using the Google Hangout on Air format. Talks are broadcast on average once a week (sometimes more), and generally include guests from the four corners of the globe. They can be watched live on Google+, or afterwards on You Tube.


To find out more about EPT and their talks you can visit their Google+ page and/or their blog.

With warm thanks to Gerda, Esther and Al for allowing me this wonderful opportunity to be part of their fascinating EPT adventure!


Saturday, April 28, 2012



This week I did a one-day hike along the Canalisation des Orangers to La Porte via Les Lataniers. 


The Canalisation des Orangers is one of several entry points into the cirque of Mafate; it's the easiest way (read 'flattest'), but also one of the longest. 

first part of Canalisation des Orangers path (from Sans Souci)

Starting at about 500m at Sans Souci (part of the commune of Saint-Paul) we initially hiked along a rather  muddy dirt path, before rapidly arriving at the water pipe path itself and the entrance to the cirque (caldera) of Mafate.

sign marking the start of the cirque of Mafate

For safety reasons most of the time the water pipe is not visible, although occasionally it can be seen. Every year the pipe transports about 1.6 million cubic metres of water from the catchments of Ravine des Orangers and Ravine Grand-mère.


canalisation (water-pipe) visible on the path

Hiking the Canalisation des Orangers means walking along a narrow path (about 2 metres wide) at an average altitude of 700 metres. Although I'm sometimes subject to vertigo, I've always found the path is wide enough for me.

On the other side of the ravine we could see the village of Dos d'Ane.

Dos d'Ane

Far below we could see the Riviere des Galets winding its course.

Riviere des Galets

Having started early (6am) the sun was rising while we were walking, and we had great views as headed into the cirque.

heading into Mafate

We occasionally saw some papangues (circus maillardi; Réunion harrier) flying, and as with most hikes on Réunion, lots of spiders (called bibes locally) sitting in their webs.

Nephila inaurata (Red-legged golden orb-web spider)

In this northern part of Mafate choka are very common.

Choka, part of the Agavoideae plant family

I'd hiked the Canalisation des Orangers several times in the past, but always when leaving Mafate after a hike of several days. 

can you see the path? it's the line on the cliff face (right)

This was the first time I'd walked it for a one-day hike and heading into Mafate.


We often found ourselves higher than helicopters, which other than hiking, are the only other way of accessing Mafate.

looking down on a helicopter

another view of Rivière des Galets

looking back (can you see the people on the path?)

a tunnel along the path (the only one)
occasionally the rock face is bare, but mostly it's covered in vegetation

After several hours hiking and after the tunnel we started to see the îlets (hamlet settlements) of Mafate.

Cayenne(left) and Ilet aux Lataniers (middle)

Finally 17 kilometres and 4 1/2 hours after we started hiking we reached the îlet of Les Lataniers. Seven families live here, and the children go to school at the 'nearby' Ilet aux Orangers, a 1 1/4 hour hike away. It lies below the Crête (ridge) des Orangers (1360m), and there are three gîtes, and a shop/bar.


After a brief pause to buy a cold drink at the bar we carried on down to the riverbed, where we forded the river for the first time and then stopped for lunch, having hiked for nearly 6 hours already.

we turned left at this intersection

After lunch remained about 90 minutes of repeated river crossings (I lost count how many), as we had to criss-cross back and forth across the river to reach La Porte.

photo taken during one of the river crossings

No point in taking your hiking shoes off, you'd waste too much time!  Water levels can vary greatly according to the amount of rainfall there's been recently, but for us it ranged from low-calf to mid-thigh level, depending on where we were fording.

path marker near the river bed



looking towards Dos d'Ane

After a total of about 8 hours hiking (including breaks) we reached La Porte, from where a 4-wheel drive vehicle (ordered in advance) can pick you up, and for €7 take you to the small town of Riviere des Galets.


While waiting for our transport we watched a helicopter manoeuvring, picking up heavy supplies and flying them to some of the îlets in the cirque.





back to civilisation.
Maps:

Useful link:
Wikiloc - satellite map of the hike

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