Sunday, August 5, 2012

After a couple of days in Reykjavik we headed out to discover the rest of this country famous for its volcanic activity. First we hired a car and headed out to visit Iceland's Golden Circle.

on the road again

First stop was Þingvellir National Park, one of Iceland's most important historical sites as the Alþingi - the world's oldest existing Parliament - was established there around 930 AD.
 
Map of Þingvellir National Park, including Þingvallavatn lake

The Alþingi assembled here every summer until the end of the 13th century; after that time it functioned as a court of law until 1798.

in Þingvellir National Park

Many important events took place here such as the adoption of Christianity around 1000 AD, and the foundation of the modern Icelandic Republic in 1944.

looking over Þingvallavatn (Þingvellir lake), Iceland's largest lake

Þingvellir has been a National Park since 1930 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004.


Þingvellir


Þingvellir lies on the junction of the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates on the Mid Atlantic Ridge, and this junction is more clearly visible here than anywhere else in the world.

Þingvalla church (left) and farmhouse (right; dates from 1930)

Our next stop was Geysir - the original hot-water spout which has given its name to all others.

inactive Geysir

The whole geothermal area is about 3km2 at the surface

Geysir can spout boiling water up to 70m high but it erupts infrequently, and a few metres away is Strokkur which is much more reliable (erupting every 8-10 minutes), if not quite so high.

 Strokkur erupting

Strokkur erupting

Geysir is a high temperature geothermal area with a base temperature of around 250°C.



 Little Geysir

Our next stop on the Golden circle was the Gullfoss falls (literally 'Golden falls'). It actually consists of two waterfalls, the upper one is 11 metres high, and the lower one is 21 metres, so the combined height is 31 metres.

Gullfoss falls

The whole gorge is about 2.5km long and up to 70 metres deep.

Gullfoss falls

These Icelandic horses were the perfect and literal example of "the grass is always greener on the other side". Although the vegetation on both sides of the barbed wire fence looked identical to me they insisted on bending their heads over and grazing on the 'wrong' side!

Icelandic horses

We left the Golden Circle route and headed down Route 30 to the south coast, where we stopped to look at the Seljalandsfoss falls.

Seljalandsfoss falls

We then headed eastwards along Route 1 (Iceland's ring road) as far as Skogafoss waterfall.

landscape along Route 1

landscape along Route 1

With a width of 25m and a drop of over 60m Skógafoss is one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls.

Skógafoss

This Oystercatcher with its striking bright red beak caught our eye.

Oystercatcher

Heading back west to Reykjavik we could see the edge of the Eyjafjallajökull ice cap when looking back. Eyjafjallajökull became famous in 2010 when the consequences of its eruption disrupted air traffic over most of Europe and far beyond.

Eyjafjallajökull ice cap

hole in the rock, near Hveragerði

Our next three days we taken up with scuba-diving, (see this post). Heading to our various dive sites we got to see parts of the country we might have missed if we'd been visiting by ourselves. For example we dived in Kleifarvatn lake in the Reykjanesfolkvangur (Reykjanes wilderness reserve), where there are submerged hot springs which reminded me of the dive we did at Pulau Weh in Sumatra last year. With a surface of 10km2 Kleifarvatn is the largest lake on the Reykjanes peninsula. But only after diving did our dive guide tell us the legend about a worm-like monster the size of a whale who lurks in the lake - the local equivalent of the Loch Ness Monster!

Kleifarvatn lake, Reykjanesfolkvangur

Near the lake is a geothermal field called Seltún, with bubbling mud pots and steam vents.

this smelly mud pot is named Fúlipollur - literally 'stinking puddle'

bubbling mud

The steam vents are surrounded by sulphur deposits which in earlier times were exploited for gunpowder production.

steam vents and mud pots, Seltún

At a depth of 1000m the temperature is above 200°C.

looking towards Kleifarvatn from summit, Seltún

On our third and final day of diving we head up to Eyjafjörður, Iceland's longest fjord. Situated in the north of the country this was a 10-hour round trip, with two dives in the fjord in-between. It gave us the chance to see some fantastic scenery while on the road.


We stopped briefly at the small town of Blönduós, where this unusual church was constructed between 1982-1993. It can seat 250 people.

Blönduós church

scenery on the way to Eyjafjörður

scenery on the way to Eyjafjörður

scenery on the way to Eyjafjörður

Once at the fjord our diving boat left from a tiny fishing village called Hjalteyri. 

looking back at Hjalteyri

In the fjord we dived on volcanic geothermal chimneys - the only such chimneys which can be scuba-dived in the world.

in Eyjafjörður

On our way back we made a brief stop at Akureyri, Iceland's second largest urban area, with a population of 18 000.

in Akureyri

On our final day in Iceland we spent several hours at the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa which is one of Iceland's most famous attractions.

Blue Lagoon

Consisting of 2/3 saltwater and 1/3 freshwater the water's temperature is a perfect 38°C.

Blue Lagoon

Saturday, July 28, 2012


I imagine few people have been to Iceland without visiting Reykjavik at some point, and we were no exception.

Arriving at our hotel there from the airport at 1am I was surprised by the 'night' sky. Although I knew nights were short in Iceland at this time of year, I thought it would be like Scotland where nights are brief but it still gets dark. But this isn't the case - at this time of year the middle of the night is only as dark as this: 

Reykjavik night sky, 1am

The next morning we took a walking tour of the city sights; first stop was the city's cathedral, Domkirkja, built in 1847.

Domkirkja

Next door is the Alþingishúsið, the small 19th century National Assembly - the country has 63 members of Parliament. Iceland has the world's oldest existing parliament, the Alþing, founded in 930, and this building is just the modern manifestation of an ancient system.

Alpingi - a modern annexe was added to the side in 2002

part of the city centre

The Safnahúsið (literally 'museum house') was constructed 1906-1908 to house the National Library, before it moved to another building in 1940.

Safnahúsið, old National Library building

The statue below shows Ingólfr Arnarson, considered to be the first permanent resident of Iceland. Arriving in 871 legend says that he tossed his öndvegissúlur (high seat pillars) overboard and settled where the gods washed them ashore. He named the place Reykjavik, which means 'smoky bay', due to the steam rising from the geothermal vents.

Ingólfr Arnarson

Although it isn't the city's cathedral Hallgrímskirkja is the country's largest church and its 6th largest building. Built between 1945 and 1986 it was designed to resemble basaltic lava flows.

Hallgrímskirkja church

Outside is a statue of Leifur Eiríksson, the first European to discover North America around the year 1000 AD. He was probably born in Iceland and the statue was a present from the USA in 1930 to mark the 1000th anniversary of the Alþing.

Leifur Eiríksson

Inside the church is an organ with 5275 pipes.

organ, Hallgrímskirkja

Tjörnin is a small lake/large pond in the middle of the city with a large population of birds. In the winter geothermal heat is used to prevent part of the lake freezing over so the birds can still swim there.

Tjörnin (The Pond)

A small park lies to the south of Tjörnin and we were amused to watch a cat trying to catch an arctic tern there. Needless to say the cat didn't succeed and the bird almost seemed to enjoy teasing it.


arctic terns

North of the pond is Reykjavik's Ráðhús or City Hall, which has an interesting 3D map of Iceland.

3D map of Iceland, Reykjavik Ráðhús

Ingólfstorg is a stone square in the city centre with geothermal steam vents.

steam vents, Ingólfstorg square

Reykjavik was designated UNESCO City of Literature in 2011 and literary quotes stencilled on the pavements were still visible this year. Here are two I particularly liked.



One of our days in Reykjavik was rather rainy, so we visited the Perlan complex (which my guide book described as looking like half of Barbarella's bra!).

Reykjavik under a rainy sky (Hallgrímskirkja to the left)

Reykjavik under a rainy sky, seen from Perlan

Perlan is a complex with a hemispherical structure placed on top of (old?) hot water storage tanks, and it houses the Saga Museum, shops, eating places and a viewing deck (see more about Sagas below). 


Perlan complex

Later as it was still raining we went to the National Museum which was very interesting, with well translated English explanations throughout. I also loved the folding chairs that you could carry round the museum! One of its exhibits is Guðbrandur's Bible, one of 500 bibles that were printed in Icelandic in 1584 and which are considered as masterpieces of the printer's art.

Guðbrandur's Bible

printing plates, woodcuts & printing blocks (16th-18th century)

Finally, a word about food. Here's a copy of the menu from a restaurant in Hafnarfjörður - note the sheep head, foal, whale; we also  saw guillemot. These are all traditional Icelandic food, but being the fussy eater that I am needless to say I didn't try any of them!

menu, restaurant in Hafnarfjörður


Related posts:

Suggested reading:

Iceland publishes the greatest number of books, and produces the most writers and literary translations per capita of any country in the world. 
  • The Sagas are medieval family sagas. Written in the 12th and 13th centuries they describe events that took place in Iceland in the 10th and 11th centuries.
  • Halldór Laxness won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955 and is considered Iceland's literary genius.
  • Arnaldur Indriðason writes crime fiction which is based in Reykjavik and is one of Iceland's most popular writers. His work has been published in 26 countries and translated into 20 languages.